Hilaree Nelson
Hilaree Nelson (1971 – 2022) was an American ski mountaineer and adventurer. Raised in Seattle, she developed a deep passion for skiing and climbing early in life. Over her career she completed dozens of first descents on some of the highest peaks on Earth, pushing the boundaries of what was thought possible in the mountains. She began skiing in the Pacific Northwest as a child and progressed to technical alpine ascents of glaciated peaks, building the foundation for a life in the Himalaya.
In 2018, alongside Jim Morrison, she made the first ski descent of Lhotse (8,516 m), the fourth‑highest mountain in the world. This groundbreaking feat earned her the National Geographic People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year award. The following year she became the first woman to summit both Mount Everest and Lhotse in a single day, then skied from the summit of Lhotse. The achievement solidified her standing among the most accomplished high‑altitude athletes of her generation.
A longtime athlete for The North Face, Nelson used her platform to advocate for women in adventure sports and to inspire the next generation of climbers and skiers. She also notched first descents across the Andes, the Alaska Range, and the Karakoram—always with a small, trusted team. Her legacy is one of courage, humility, and relentless exploration. She was known for meticulous preparation, calm decision‑making under pressure, and a deep respect for the mountain environment.
She died on September 30, 2022 while skiing from the summit of Manaslu (8,163 m) after being caught in a storm. Her impact on the mountaineering community continues to be felt worldwide. Nelson’s life remains a testament to the power of human ambition and the bonds formed between partners in the world’s most challenging places.